The sizzle of the Southwest: Kachina Southwestern Grill
What’s in a name?
When I first heard of Kachina, my mind went to the piddly Italian I learned eons ago. “Kachina” sounds much like a cognate of “cucina,” which of course, is Italian for “kitchen.” Turns out I was way off. Kachina are actually Native American spirits in doll form. They can represent anything from the natural world to an element like wind. In Kachina’s case, I’m betting there’s a spirit out there for the quintessential margarita and the ultimate Navajo taco.
Once upon a time, a chemical magician helmed the restaurant in The Westin in Westminster. His name: Denver’s Ian Kleinman. O’s Steak and Seafood, as it was then called, primarily billed itself as an upscale take on classic surf and turf, though it also dabbled in serious molecular gastronomy. On both fronts it was worthy of a spot in high-end Westin environs. As of May 2012, however, O’s closed its doors – with Kleinman long since called to other projects.
But where one restaurant passes, another emerges. Indeed, the turnaround was remarkable: September of the same year took the esteemed hotel a hop, skip, and a leap from what once was; out of the history of O’s came Kachina, a Southwestern grill, bar, and restaurant.
I ate at Kachina recently. And I ate. And I ate. And I ate some more. And with every savory, eye-popping dish that ushered from recesses of the kitchen, I sucked on a margarita. OK, two margaritas. And a Mexican coffee – treated with tequila.
The trouble with Kachina is not that it fails to offer something you’d expect, but that it entices all too well with a flavor palette touching in part on modernity, and in part on flavor-studded tradition.
At the start of the meal – and throughout, as a matter of fact – guests have the privilege of sampling a tamale from the meandering tamale cart, complete with your choice of vegetarian or pork green chile, aged Cheddar, and zingy pico. Be warned, however: each one is $5.
While tamales ring of the old, there are new treats in store, from appetizers through comida, or entrées. My favorites: the tempura-battered avocado fries that towered above the Shrimp Tostada. Sure, the shrimp were tasty in their buttermilk dressing, but I think I would rather have enjoyed a plate of lusty avocado fries with citrus aïoli and skip the iceberg-bedded shrimp.
Though hats off and tongues wagging to the inimitable Colorado Sea Bass: two flaky white fillets hugged by red chile, a kicking poblano pesto, and large chunks of immaculately braised, subtly-flavored fennel. I’ll bet you’ve never paired fennel and sea bass, eh? Neither have I.
Other of the do-not-miss centerpieces on the menu are the Navajo Tacos; with seven varieties sporting deftly slow-braised stars like lamb and calabacitas tucked into folded fry bread, these are more filling than you’d imagine. I ordered three, and with an app and some margs to preface, I’d say I was pushing the limits of even a healthy appetite. If you get one, get the Mojave – a sultry combo of duck confit, pickled cactus, and manchego that tickles the tongue.
Then, dessert – if you make you make it that far, which I barely did. I leave you with only two suggestions worthy of over-indulgence. Custard fans rejoice in the Coconut Flan, cut with rapier perfection by a blood orange syrup. Sweet tooths, however, have only one choice in front of them: the Cookies and Cream. It’s a Mexican fair on a plate, with wedding cake cookies and churro-esque funnel cake paired with Ibarra ice cream, and a Key lime crème anglaise.
Stick that in your Mexican coffee and drink it. The cookies, that is.
Which reminds me: order a margarita. Nothing fancy, or outlandish – just a house marg. There’s not a hint of chemical manipulation in the glass.
Kachina Southewstern Grill is located at 10600 Westminster Blvd. Online at KachinaGrill.com.
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