When a meal summons tears — and it’s not the onions

A good meal isn’t just about the food, although that is clearly a large part of it. It’s an experience. I’ve been known to break into tears when the circumstances are right. My wusband has gotten used to it. I’ll explain.

I like a meal to feel authentic. The first time I ate beignets at Café du Monde in New Orleans, I couldn’t stop crying because I had been waiting 15 years for just that. It topped off my entire French Quarter experience.

I want to feel welcome. Nothing says a great meal more than when the ones providing it make you feel they’re glad you joined.

It should elevate my mood. Often my most memorable meals are ones that made me feel like a big city girl — eating al fresco in fabulous shades helps.

I long to taste it again. A lobster roll from the Hamptons, a clamwich from P-town, a liver pate I used to get from the Upper Westside. The memories.

I want to bring other food people. I think one of my best friends tests all of her prospective girlfriends by taking them to her favorite dive restaurants, just to see if they know anything about good food.

I tell stories about a place when I’m talking about the city. Three words, “Round Rock Donuts.” If you go to Austin and you don’t make this trip, I question our friendship.

It usually involves people I love. My friend Matty makes the best mojitos. He uses mint from my mother’s garden, served with a delicious picnic; we sit in City Park, listen to jazz and smile. This is a moment of pure love.

This brings me to my latest good meal, at Bistro Vendome in Larimer Square. Bistro Vendome is one of three restaurants owned by Executive Chef Jennifer Jasinski and Beth Gruitch; the other two are Rioja and Euclid Hall. All three are perfect examples of how to do a restaurant well.

I love French bistros, everything about them. The food should be simple and delicious. Pomme frites or French fries, steak, fresh seafood, these are some of the easiest things to create on the planet; McDonald’s makes millions of pounds of fries a day. And these pomme frites were da bomb!

Although the menu changes, they always make sure to serve the classics as well. The wine list was just right and our handsome waiter knew it well. The hostess didn’t look at us disapprovingly when we showed up 15 minutes late for our reservation (although the place was packed so I wouldn’t recommend it). Dina, the general manager, was kind, solicitous and knowledgeable.

Tucked into this wonderful courtyard, Bistro Vendome is a gem of a spot.

It has been named one of Denver’s most romantic restaurants and with good reason. With little bistro tables set under a tree with twinkling lights, the street sounds quieted and the starry night sky overhead. If I weren’t already married, I would demand my wusband take me here to propose.

Dina said that she helps two or three nervous suitors a week pop the question.

Each person asked about our meal and I had nothing but praise, even for one of the cooks that I encountered in the bathroom. I told them about my crying thing — they totally understood. Although I didn’t cry, I couldn’t stop smiling. I think I was smiling too much to cry.