The Southern-Fried Majesty of Kirk’s Soul Kitchen

Denver isn’t exactly a hub of soul food places but if you’re looking for a dose of mom ‘n’ pop soul food deliciousness, make your way over to Kirk’s Soul Kitchen off Colfax in Aurora. The restaurant is just up the road from University of Colorado’s Anschutz Medical Center. It’s not a big, fancy establishment, but it serves up quality food that tastes like home cooking.  You can call in an order for take out or dine in. My go-to meal is something smothered with their hella-good gravy, macaroni and cheese, and collard greens.

You might be tempted to say no when they ask you, “Do you want that smothered?” Don’t play yourself — you didn’t go to a soul food restaurant to count your macros. The correct answer is yes. Yes, I would like that smothered. I personally am a big fan of ordering meatloaf and pork chops — I mentioned smothered, right? Both are absolutely delicious, but if I had to pick, I’d go with the meatloaf, a classic comfort food. (My mother doesn’t live in town so I try to get my meatloaf where I can.) It comes with two slices, and is a perfect consistency. The flavor combo with the gravy is the perfect blend of savory and not-too-peppery.

If you’ve never had collard greens, first of all, what are you doing with your life? Second, I highly recommend trying them. The key to good greens is just the right amount of seasoning and cooking them to a perfect level of tenderness. Kirk’s delivers with what I consider the best collards I’ve had in the Denver Metro area. They’re made with smoked turkey and seasoned for the gods. I could order just the greens and be totally satisfied.

I always at least want to order the macaroni and cheese wherever I go. But as any mac-lover knows, sometimes it’s an utter disappointment. Kirk’s is creamy and delightful. I am a fan of both baked and creamy varieties, but when it comes to a creamy mac, this one is definitely a favorite. It reminds me of one of my mother’s recipes. When it comes to soul food, of course your meat is usually the main entrée, but I’m all about the sides — they make or break the experience.

There is also an option of  a dinner roll or cornbread. I didn’t come to a soul food restaurant to NOT eat cornbread. The first time I had Kirk’s cornbread, I hesitated because I am deeply offended by sugary, cake-like cornbread and I didn’t want to be bitter about it. But I took the chance and was delighted to find that it is actual cornbread! I was so eager that I crumbled it (again this isn’t that cakey BS) but it was so good, I just got a spoon and finished it off.

I have a goal of eating every single thing on the menu. I don’t even live in that area, but it is a great reason to head up East Colfax, and I plan to do it every chance I get. For some standout menu items, I recommend the cabbage with bacon, and southern-style okra with shrimp. There are also other staple sides like rice (smother it) and mashed potatoes (smother it). If you feel like really diving in, get the shrimp etouffee. It packs plenty of flavor and you will not be disappointed.

A visit to Kirks’s is nothing short of a great time and a full, happy belly. The staff here is almost as sweet as the peach cobbler. (They don’t come smothered, though.)