The beauty of Central Bistro

Saturday in LoHi is a thing of majesty: jocular crowds guffawing over Fail Blog foibles; ladies of laughter chatting atop second–floor patios with beer; the scent of pasta, steak, and crisp white wine lingering on the stiff breeze; and a conviviality that is the sign of a simple, relaxing weekend.

Yes, you say, it’s the up–and–coming LoHi that everyone loves – the Linger–and–Jezebel–dotted culinary scene that draws crowds from every point in Denver. Who wouldn’t want to be at any of the dozens of hotspots that have lately characterized her appeal?

And yet, it’s already become such a bustle, it’s nice to be a part of the energy without being overwhelmed by it.

That’s where Central Bistro and Bar comes in.

You know where the grand-dame of wurst, Über Sausage, lies, right? Well pass the sausage heading east along the freeway and meander your way to a quaint little bistro on the corner of Central and 17th. Streets.

Sit, relax, and have a glass of wine.

In a city where patiomania is near diagnosable, it’s wonderful to know a restaurant can naturally extend into its environs with comfort and ease, away from the contrived relaxations of crowded intersections and noisy hordes. And yet, the magic of being a part of Denver is still palpable – from a seat on Central’s roomy patio, you can practically touch the spires of downtown across the bridge. Meanwhile, the energy of LoHi pulses just a few blocks away, should you want to dive in later for drinks and bacchanalia.

But here, it’s about the food, the company you share it with, and the wine that makes it all complete. Back in the kitchen, two top toques share the reins: Chefs Gerard Strong and Jason Clark. Their inspiration is personal, unique, and wholly American. But as one must confess, being American means being a little bit of everything. And so, the menu conjures images and flavors from around the globe: Colorado Beef Carpaccio extols the virtue of native meat, while embracing a classic European tradition. It serves as the bed to a surprisingly flavorful arugula salad and, thankfully, is not burdened by slings of sauces and drizzles of garnish. Then there are the Confit Chicken Wings. Talk about reinvented Americana, these bite-sized treats take wings to another realm entirely.

Much like many new American concepts, Central Bistro has embraced the small and shareable plate idea. As far as I’m concerned, that’s the way to go – nestled into a chair under the shade of trees with a chilled white at your fingertips. Take a bite of this, a bite of that, and linger. I did, one breezy Saturday a few weeks back. And perhaps my favorite lingering moments came with the steak tartine, topped with a fried egg and paired with a grain mustard sauce. In the moment, it felt French – but then the plot thickened.

What caught me next, and somewhat unawares, was the refreshing watermelon salad. Let it be known that I’m not a fan of watermelon, but the chefs did right by me with this rendition: a delicate pair for capicola, the gentle crunch of jicama, and house-made ricotta. It was a story in itself – mellow, sweet watermelon hit with saltiness, capped with crunch, and soothed with cream. Finished, of course, with a sip of lightly–oaked chardonnay.

If your appetite is raging, then by all means, dive into an entrée. One of Central’s unforgettable features has to be the pan–seared halibut. To me, fish is a beautiful and versatile ocean treat, but too often white fish is pegged as a delicate, dainty centerpiece. I’ll often see it treated to nothing more than a light salad and a quaint sauce. There’s a balance, of course, and Central has found it with this dish: light, flaky fish cozies up to a smoky bacon vinaigrette with rich, earthy mushrooms to give the dish more of well-rounded, layered profile.

And while dessert is by no means necessary, it offers a captivating last word: Nutella Waffles with butterscotch and pretzel ice cream. Summer may be about all things light and fresh, but it’s also about indulgence. I wouldn’t have it any other way.