Tamayo’s fresh look

We all have memories of Larimer Square: first dates awkwardly endured behind bowls of squash soup at Rioja, coming out to parents with a few (dozen) margaritas at Lime, or trying to pronounce “Châteauneuf-du-Pape” while impressing business clients at Crú. And for many, adventures on Larimer have included a meal or two at Tamayo, grounding the culinary buzz of the square on the edge of 14th. But whether you’ve been or not, it’s time to give the old Tamayo a new look.

You see, Tamayo has enjoyed a bit of a makeover recently – in both menu and décor. The space, while still occupying the narrow corner lot on the edge of Larimer, has taken on a more fluid feel while deftly separating formal dining from bar-anchored happy hours. Extending along the right side of the dining room stretch two-person banquettes and tables nestled against the soaring windows looking out onto the bustle of 14th, while the bar – backed by squat, glowing bottles of tequila and a Rufino Tamayo-inspired mural – extends along the left, with enough seating and standing room to host a dozen or more happy hour revelers. In the back, things open up a bit with circular tables holding sway, while subdued track lighting runs above, gently highlighting the glint of glamorous margaritas or tiered flights of tequila.

The menu revamp was welcome, and though rarely did I find a miss in the old, there was much to enjoy in the new: perhaps the best guacamole I have had in the Mile High City (I recommend sticking to the traditional), the Tamayo-branded margarita marked with tamarind and chile for kick, and a sinfully smooth Roasted Corn Soup.

But the crème de la crème of the meal was absolutely the tacos – six heaping, steaming, corn tortilla-wrapped dynamos of flavor. There’s not a one I wouldn’t commend to your taste buds, but my favorite was easily the Mahi Mahi, swarming with grilled garlic, flaky fish, the piquant edge of lemony citrus, the punch of chile, and the soothing creaminess of avocado. It’s amazing how much flavor was packed into so small a package, and how much it was worth lingering salivation. Lest it take a backseat, know that a close second has to be the Beef Tenderloin taco topped with pickled Fresno chile and salty-sweet panela cheese.

Amid raucous laughter and intense buzz, entrées eventually ushered to our table with little pomp but a pause for explanation: the Beef Short Rib Cazuela, a deep and rich braise served with tortillas, succulent rice, and tender black beans; and the Pork Carnitas, peaking above a too-sweet sauce and crowned with a red onion-Mandarin salsa. Honestly, my favor rests on the Short Ribs, though I still would be content to cozy into a half-dozen tacos.

Throughout all of this deliciousness sailed margaritas and mojitos aplenty, on top of a tequila flight that proved Tamayo knows what it’s doing. A trio of New World and Old World spirits, the threesome spanned gentle subtlety and smoky smoothness. And don’t hesitate to ask your server about what’s what and why – they know their stuff.

The end of the meal capped in an orgasmic chocolate orgy – a flourless chocolate brownie which stole my heart and waistline, a quenelle of chocolate ice cream, and a tower of chocolateya-blood orange cream that offered a much-desired break from the intensity of it all.

And so, plied with Tamayo goodness, we sat full of satisfaction and smiles. Most of us know that Tamayo speaks for itself, so I’d be hard to pressed to say anything you haven’t heard, except: the new Tamayo is worth a try. Though, be warned; the prices are a bit steep. $10 for guac and chips? It might be worth your while to saddle up to the bar for a happy hour bite and brew first, then save then save the full meal for a special occasion. When you choose to enjoy it, though, rest assured you will have no regrets.