Spruce Farm & Fish

Years go by, and restaurants fade. Seasons change, and so do menus. But occasionally, the volley of history is captured together with the flavors of the future. When done with grace and panache, even the most ambivalent find their appetite.

For a native Boulderite of any tenure, dining at the Hotel Boulderado is a necessity. And yes, the concepts have changed over the last 100 years — most recently taking shape in License No. 1, the subterranean speakeasy bar and lounge; and Spruce, a rebirth of former Q’s. But that doesn’t mean history has been lost.

To the contrary, in fact. Step into Spruce’s demure, verdant interior and you’ll find it’s not a rough departure from Q’s at all, but a refreshing new adventure that soaks in the stories of yesteryear. The gold crown moldings still adorn the ceiling; the stained glass still glows atop wide windows; original wooden beams stretch wall to wall; and the covered patio descends onto the sidewalk as it always has. This time, with a blush of green.

Simple and well-stated, the dining room is the perfect entrée to a reinvigorated menu. That menu is the creation of Chef Shawn Murrell, a five-year veteran of the Boulderado; he has taken pains to ensure that every dish rests happily in all things local and seasonal. The sea and the farm play well together, allowing for an Oyster Casino lead (the richness of bacon balances the kick of lemon-butter and the gentle crunch of toasted breadcrumbs), while mussels, crab, and tuna all make way in small plate indulgences. You could spend your entire meal on the ocean, if you were in the mood.

Classic American dishes are still front-and-center, without unnecessary banter. Why? When a Filet Mignon docks at your table, a Harris Ranch cut spiring atop potato gnocchi, covered with melting Gorgonzola cheese, what needs be said? And while this has a tendency to steal the show, other main dishes share equally powerful performances. The Lemon-Caper Chicken, for example, sports a playful tang that’s a wonderful juxtaposition for earthy-salty truffle fries.

And don’t you dare step away from the table without several bites of the inimitable desserts — two in particular. First: the individual Bing Cherry Pie, a sweet and crunchy decadence with the bite of one-of-a-kind fresh cherries. To be honest, I’d be content to eat nothing but the crust — a flaky, buttery, sugar-dressed canvas for any fruit the season offers. I even tried to get the recipe, but such things are kept secret for a reason.

If you crave chocolate, then the Flourless Chocolate Cake is a must. I know what you’re imagining — a dense, fudgy wedge dredged in powdered sugar. Not so. Pastry Chef Alex Hindman has done right by this classic dessert, delivering immense chocolate-ness with actual cake-like consistency, a caramel contrast, and a cap of sweet crème fraîche.

To drink, you ask? The classic cocktails are all in attendance, but try your palate on something new, for heaven’s sake. On the summer evenings when the pulsing sun lingers, a lemonade-and-vodka Vespa is what the season demands. And come the dreaded winter, when warmth is welcomed in any form, the bourbon-rich Chaitini sparks and soothes from every side.

When the end of the meal finally comes, License No. 1 — formerly Catacombs — is the ideal denouement. Settle in for a song, a sip, and a bit of reflection, because nothing beats the flavor and flair of the Boulderado, then and now.

Spruce is located at 2115 13^th Street in Boulder.