Sonnenalp, Vail’s surprising, savory ski shore

Somewhere nestled in the jagged peaks of the Rocky Mountains, dusted with snow and marked by Austrian gables, sits a jewel of the Old World: Vail’s own Sonnenalp Resort. For those who have meandered through the cobbled streets of Vail Village, Sonnenalp is no interloper – it sits at the edge of it all with humble propriety, one face smiling toward the sloping, pristine white of the mountain and one grinning at the bustle of the city itself. Its balconies – lining many of the 100 plus room in its cozy interior – are carved in the style of Austrian ski chalets, while the faint glow of fireplaces tease passers-by, tempting visitors with hot chocolate to-dos and Champagne fêtes. In the laughter-tinged background of the sprawling lounge at the hotel’s base sound the ivory keys of a happy piano, dusting off old classics and culling warmth from countless staves of music.

This is Austria as we would have it – complete with an accented and convivial service staff, many from Europe, who don traditional Austrian dresses and gray woolen coats. It is what we all fantasize about, isn’t it? Flavors of the austere and foreign, but comfortable enough to inspire a bit of dreaming. And whether that dream begins with a book by the fire, or a stint in your suite’s hot tub, there’s a bit of something for everyone here.

And that goes for the food as well. Once upon a time, the chef of Sonnenalp’s in-house restaurant, Ludwig’s, crafted a culinary program that rang of the Old World in spades –rich with game meats and heavy sauces, rife with flavors of Europe and the comforts of its ski country. The trouble was, there were far too many chefs clamoring for attention in the Valley with those offerings. So, Sonnenalp donned a bit of a different toque and brought on the extra-talented Steve Topple to turn things over. Now, instead of Wienerschnitzel anchoring Ludwig’s dinnertime service, seafood does – the likes of flounder, bouillabaisse, dover sole, and snapper. And, thanks to the wiles of the chef himself, not a fillet of it is frozen before it hits the table. That’s right – flying in from both coasts and Hawaii, there’s not a single bit of seafood that’s spent longer than 24 hours out of the water.

Let’s be honest – that’s a feat. And that’s not the end of it either. A recent tasting of the menu’s delicate flounder left me a touch verklempt: gently coated in toasted almonds, fried leeks soaring above the plate like a monument to the meal, and a luscious sauce that walked the thin line between decadence and overbearance with remarkable poise.

And yes, Topple does still master the favorites – Lamb Loin and Beef Wellington, both expertly handled, mark the menu with prominence. But the focus has shifted at Ludwig’s, and people are taking note.

When asked if longtime guests were having a been of a struggle with the menu, Topple laughed. “Not at all,” he said with a beaming smile. “In fact, the Snapper has become one of our new staples.” Snapper – a staple in Colorado? Who would have thought?

It seems that as soon as Coloradans get over the idea that fresh seafood is possible in our land-locked state, we go nuts for the sea. And while a bouillabaisse might not be the norm for native Austrians slung up high in the Alps, it brightens the possibilities and ignites a few more dreams in Vail. Before or after a trek down the mountain.

A note, however, before I leave this fantastical world behind: If ever you thought the American Continental breakfast was a beloved institution, I advise you to indulge in an early morning feast on Ludwig’s light-soaked terrace. The buffet is broader and of higher quality than any I have ever enjoyed – complete with charcuterie, quaint breakfast pastries, and my personal favorite, eggs Benedict. They even bring you your tea on a tray with a baby jar of honey. If that doesn’t make your day, I don’t know what will.

Sonnenalp Resort is located at 20 Vail Road, 81657. For more info call (866) 284.4411 or online at Sonnenalp.com.