Mile High Hamburger Mary’s: 2018 Best Brunch
Addison Herron-Wheeler is OUT FRONT's co-publisher and editor-in-chief and friend…
Walking into Mile High Hamburger Mary’s for their weekend drag brunch, the first thing you notice is the people.
Normally, that’s not a particularly remarkable statement. But Mary’s is a bright purple building filled with drag queens and people drinking out of giant glasses shaped like the leg lamp in A Christmas Story. And still, the first thing you’ll notice is the clientele.
Queers of all shapes and sizes pile into Mary’s for brunch every weekend. Older ladies out to brunch together; gaggles of guys scoping each other out; young people wearing cute outfits and swapping stories; a proud goth, trans person with a transgender flag sash draped across their shoulders, lots of makeup, and a Cradle of Filth T-shirt.
And that’s not surprising, given how tasty the food is. The local community may be divided on certain issues, including which bars are the best, but food is the great equalizer. Everyone has to eat, and chances are, when Saturday and Sunday afternoons roll around, everyone is in need of a good, greasy breakfast, whether it’s because they were at the club all night or because they spent a lazy night at home and haven’t done their weekly grocery shopping yet. And the food doesn’t disappoint.
Plus, the atmosphere is awesome. Drag brunch is very relaxed, with local queens like Evelyn Evermore and Kelela Cortez performing every week. Instead of a super-structured show, the queens do pop-up performances, invite the audience to join them when performing, and just generally keep things light and fun.
And if all that isn’t festive enough the giant, leg-shaped glasses, colorful walls, cooky art, and fun servers keep things interesting. The general vibe is that Mary’s is a place where it’s OK to have fun and let loose.
This is probably why so many queer folks feel safe within its walls. Brunch is a decidedly LGBTQ activity, but at least in Denver, it’s also been embraced by the straight community (which is fantastic; it’s not like we have a trademark on brunch). But there’s no guarantee that every restaurant and all of its patrons will be as wonderful and open-minded as the folks who work and hang out at Mary’s. You can come, be yourself, look how you want to look, and love who you want to love. It’s also probably why they won Best Brunch in OUT FRONT’s annual reader poll. Well, that and the delicious food.
All cheesy, Cheers-esque rhetoric brought on by this joyful political season in Denver aside, the food is also killer. Here are a few of the best reasons to make Saturday or Sunday your cheat day and eat your heart out at Mile High Hamburger Mary’s.
Grill That Beyotch: It’s a grilled cheese with an egg and bacon on it. Sounds simple enough, but it’s like breakfast sandwich meets classic diner grilled cheese from your childhood. This is THE hangover cure you need after a rough night.
Biscuits and Gravy: A classic. The biscuits are fluffy, and the gravy is delicious. Some green onions modernize the dish and add a pop of flavor that’s usually missing from the Southern favorite.
Love Me Tenders: Perfect for the picky eater. Everyone loves brunch, but not everyone wants to get experimental with their food choices. This is straightforward: tenders and fries, some dipping sauce on the side.
Mac n’ Cheese Fritters: Balls of mac n’ cheese are pretty much the epitome of decadence. It’s brunch; why the hell not? Plus, how many ball jokes can you make while you stuff these balls in your mouth? Make a game out of it.
Buffy the Burger Slayer: This review would not be complete without mention of at least one of the famous burgers. And how cute is this name? Nerds will order it just for the reference, but the roasted garlic, swiss cheese, and garlic aioli are to die for, or to be undead for. Just avoid a makeout sesh after eating this one, unless garlic is your thing. No kink shaming here.
L.G.B.T. Sandwich: Again, props for the cute name. And for updating the classic BLT with guacamole and garlic aioli. The B.E.L.T. with bacon, egg, lettuce, tomato, and garlic aioli makes it even more breakfast-y, and the name is a hilarious reference if you’re into musicals.
Rainbow Fruit Parfait: Great if you’re not willing to break your diet plans, or if you just want “a little on the side,” as Mary says. Healthy and super good!
Queen Mary Burger: Caramelized onions, cheddar cheese, super classic. Can’t go wrong.
Bloody Mary: They don’t even need a pun; it’s built in. This comes in a pint glass with veggies and spice, and it’s only $6. Definitely one of the best in town.
Bottomless Mimosa: ‘Nuff said. They keep the drinks flowing for just $14 bucks. How much can you handle?
Photos by Brian Degenfelder.
*The original story misspelled Kelela Cortez.
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Addison Herron-Wheeler is OUT FRONT's co-publisher and editor-in-chief and friend to dogs everywhere. She enjoys long walks in the darkness away from any sources of sunlight, rainy days, and painfully dry comedy. She also covers cannabis and heavy metal, and is author of Wicked Woman: Women in Metal from the 1960s to Now and Respirator, a short story collection.






