License No. 1

Bond, James Bond, prefers his martini shaken. My brother, on the other hand, lusts for a briney olive bobbing in his stirred, gin-heavy cocktails. And me? Well, I’ll just have some that sweet-tooth-sating Brown Derby dressed in Buffalo Trace bourbon, if you please.

In the tipple-tempting realm of Denver and Boulder dining, cocktail culture has taken control of our thirst. There’s Frank Bonnano’s Green Russell tucked beneath Larimer Square, Williams & Graham loitering at the hilt of the Highlands, and The Speakeasy swishing and swilling in Longmont. What do they all have in common? A loving remake of the ‘20s hideaways — each with its own mysterious personality.

And should you Boulderites love your spirits but miss the speakeasy vibe, you might be overjoyed to know that Hotel Boulderado’s License No. 1 is now the talk of the cocktail-loving town.

A bit of history: Once upon a time, Hotel Boulderado launched three concepts — Q’s restaurant, an upscale American destination that leaned on Colorado ingredients; The Corner Bar, serving as the hotel’s casual stop for a drink and a bite; and Catacombs, an interloping college bar serving mostly two-ingredient well cocktails in a space dotted with pool tables and arcade games.

No longer. In the late spring of 2014, the Hotel introduced some fresh faces to our dining scene — a clean-cut makeover for beloved Corner Bar and a replacement for Catacombs dubbed License No. 1.

The name “License No. 1” comes from the space’s notoriety as the city’s first drink spot to boast a liquor license. But with roaring ‘20s elegance blanketing the underground space, and martinis always at the pour, it’s hard not to think of James Bond, à la “License to Swill.”

Picture it: velvety booths, cozy wooden cocktail tables, soft, flickering light, the jingle of live piano music, and a black-tied bartender leaning your way with a grin: “What would you like tonight?”

Every concept renovation takes some getting used to, and this is no different, but I’ll confess I don’t miss Catacombs that much. Where else can a Boulderite like myself go for a top-shelf whiskey on the rocks (Stranahan’s gets me every time), or a craft cocktail that soothes the ills of a long, hard day? For that matter, where else do you find strangers cozying up together at the bar over a laugh, or jazz lovers digging into a tune with their own harmony added for kicks?

There’s something about this place — something transcendent that leaves the world of 2014 behind. It helps, of course, that the Hotel is a monument to history, and that much of the original structure remains — including the ever-churning gears of the building’s old-time elevator, which you can see at work through a glass pane. It’s the drink, too, that inspires — a tribute to classics and an embrace of the new, alongside whatever else your palate desires. And whatever time you come, you can treat yourself to conversation without a high-decibel buzz clamoring around you. Thank you for that, No. 1.

It’s worth mentioning that there’s food to nosh on as well — everything from a small-bite salad to the Angus Burger. It’s the same high-quality fare we’ve enjoyed from Q’s since day one, enjoyed with a bit more panache these days, courtesy of the succulent cocktail you’ll find docked in your hand.

So how about it, Boulder? Join me for a drink at the Hotel Boulderado? Don’t worry — it’s on me. As long as you sing me an old Cole Porter tune.