Let Them Linger

We Denverites are smitten with the idea of a unique restaurant concept, as evidenced by the sheer volume of kitschy restaurants that are opening every year and the amount of citizens that flock to their tables. A mere five years ago, if you had mentioned the name Linger you would’ve been met with quizzical stares because a mere five years ago, Linger was nothing more than a dream and a prayer. But that was then and Linger is certainly not kitschy.

A not-so-small corner in the LoHi neighborhood, Linger (formally known as Olinger Mortuary) rocks a menu of street food from around the world, featuring classics from the Americas, Morocco, Turkey, Italy, Asia, and India.

As we settle in to our seats on Linger’s rooftop patio, we are immediately met with the warm October breeze and two of the eateries signature cocktails — the La Rosa and the New Saigon. The two are a contrasting pair with the La Rosa deemed “a sleeper drink” (meaning you can drink it like water until you abruptly pass out) while the New Saigon gives the taste buds a refreshing blast with just a hint of spice.

Mentioned by nearly everyone we encountered, the Devils on Horseback (bacon-wrapped dates with goat cheese and sambal gastrique) were an early favorite along with the Achiote Shrimp & Grits served with an apple-tomatillo salsa, charred pineapple, and grilled vegetables and a staple item for Linger, the Mongolian BBQ Duck buns. Each bite of these three starters engaged the palate, and created a sensation that never ceased to make this small town Minnesotan boy grin from ear to ear.

After our first round of delectable bites, we opted for another round of handcrafted cocktails, landing on the Devil Inside (a tasty balance of rye whiskey, ramazzotti amaro, red wine, lemon juice, and bitters) and the French Quarter (combining cognac, rye whiskey, green chartreuse, lillet rose, and bitters). We certainly weren’t disappointed, and our cocktails only complemented our next round of food — a rousing round of Sesame BBQ Tacos, Veracruz Fish Tacos, Masala Dosa, and a Chicken B’stilla that lasted on the plate about as long as an amateur bull rider.

If our stomachs weren’t already maxed out, the true knockout came from the Caramel Pots de Crème — a crispy rice crumble with lime caramel and house-made brown sugar cotton candy. I could go back, take a seat at the Lite Brite bar with a cocktail and that dessert, and be completely content.

There are so many different stories you could tell about this place; the history of the old Olinger mortuary that used to reside in the space, the details of the road trip that brought them the RV bar and food truck high above on the rooftop, the idea behind the hundreds of pool balls nestled on the lower floor en route to the bathrooms, yada yada. The stories go on and on, but I think the best story is the one Cucci and his team will continue to write as they go, introducing new ideas and restaurant concepts to the hungry and growing citizens of the Mile High city. And as a lover of food, and newfound resident of this glorious state, I know I will be checking in quite often.

Linger is located at 2030 W. 30^th Avenue.