Jill’s at the St Julien: A hidden gem in Boulder

There is a stereotype that lingers in the gay community: We spend most of our time in bars. It isn’t entirely true. Sure, we love our share of cocktails and Gaga, but there’s also a side of us that rarely gets much attention: our love of food.

There are a million and one choices in Denver when dinnertime hits and we scour the city for a good drink and impressive meal. Then there’s Boulder – a city with a lively gay population, but not as many restaurants. Which is why it’s worth our while to showcase the good ones.

Take, for example, Jill’s Restaurant in the St Julien Hotel. It’s a diamond in the expanse of Boulder dining, and yet one largely unknown. The entire property is an ideal draw for a fancy night out, not only because Jill’s is a one-of-a-kind concept, but because it’s a place to spend an entire evening: drinks beforehand at T-Zero Bar, appetizers and music on the patio, and a full meal in the elegant dining room.

Part of the draw of Jill’s is its deft mingling of classic and contemporary. There’s nothing about the space that is stuffy – large open windows, an open-air dining room, and outdoor seating make it an ideal summer draw, and perfect for intimate conversation. At the same time, Chef Laurent Mechin and Manager Philippe Antoine  –  both native Frenchmen – have brought a performative element to dining with classic tableside service. Think Caesar salad assembled in front of you, or a Filet Diane seared to perfection at your side. There’s even the show-stopping entertainment of dessert flambé – most recently, the eminently-popular Bananas Foster. “Jill’s is approachable yet sophisticated – marked by a sort of casual elegance,” Mechin explains. “That’s what we want guests to feel. We want to welcome everyone and create memories.”

Mechin, while clearly a gifted chef, lacks the ego that many in the industry suffer from. Often, he has the opportunity to walk the floor and chat with guests, laughing about the quirkiness of Boulder and relishing conversation on what makes Jill’s tick. Antoine, meanwhile, courts the dining room with a rigorously French attention to detail and a keen sense of hospitality.

Jill’s provides the kind of experience that makes you wish dinner didn’t end – that there were dish after dish concocted by flame in front of you, and that the banter exchanged with the staff would carry over into after-dinner drinks and idle conversation. Fortunately, that’s possible at St Julien – a couple of twists and bends away rests the fireplace-gilded lounge, where music buzzes with the beat of boisterous conversation, and couches wait for friends, families, and couples to relax and enjoy a drink – or several.

It may be said that fine-dining is a lost art, but that isn’t necessarily true – and Jill’s proves that. It doesn’t mean stuffy, and it certainly doesn’t mean costly, but it does mean that a meal is an experience. For most of us, spending three to four hours over dinner seems monstrously long, but this is one place where that experiences will undoubtedly be relished – and repeated.