Full steam ahead to Parallel 17
The drink program at Parallel 17 is much like the food menu, a rich conglomeration of standards and adventure — stretching from the long-loved Lycheetini to the Sake Cavetini. The latter sports, among other ingredients, basil seed caviar (which you should probably Google). It’s been given nods on TV for its ingenuity and uniqueness, so it’s definitely worth a try. Supposing you’d rather have kick in your drink and less adventure, then be sure to order the Spicy Hanoi — brimming with house-infused jalapeño tequila and the added kick of lime. For my palate, I was pleased as punch with the whisky-based Uptown. It goes beautifully with bread pudding, don’t you know.
I make it a point not to dine at has-beens or would-bes. And while you can say Mary Nguyen at Parallel 17 has been around the culinary block a few times, her 20-year-old concept is still anchored at the glowing corner of 17th and Franklin. That is to say, she’s never been a would-be and she’ll never be a has-been. Since the early aughts, Nguyen’s beloved Parallel 17 has dished up an enticing blend of French and Vietnamese meal after meal — and there’s nothing slowing her down.
It makes sense, really. First of all, there aren’t hoards of high-end Vietnamese restaurants scattered throughout the city, so she’s tapped into a bit of a niche. Second, her location is ideal — far enough away from downtown to offer parking without hassle, and tied in enough to Uptown energy to offer her own pulse.
The restaurant itself isn’t sprawling, but it doesn’t need to be. Brick-lined walls stretch up to soaring ceilings where upside-down umbrellas dangle with an odd mix of white chile sculptures. Down below, two-tops and four-tops dot the dining room with a sleek bar tucked along the back wall. It’s not pretentious; it’s just charactered. It’s not crowded; just cozy.
Fortunately for me, I happened by shortly after the fall menu had been unveiled — a cheeky and fun-loving exploration of what it really means to cross classic French with traditional Vietnamese cooking. What’s best is the three-course prix-fixe treat — an eminently reasonable $35 indulgence (+$15 for wine pairings). If you come with a date or a friend, consider getting two — it gives you the chance to try a hefty portion of the menu in one meal, provided you don’t mind sharing.
Highlights for this foodie: Tuna Taro Tacos with buttery ahi tucked inside a pappadam-thin crusty shell, followed nobly by the Quinoa Salad with goat cheese fritters and tangy apricot purée. It was finished with some serious pomp and circumstance: the best curry I have ever eaten. So many are runny or paste-thick; too spicy or bland; too little or too much. But with the meaty chunks of vegetables and a sticky bed of rice, this curry took me to the moon. If your taste buds aren’t that adventurous, travel to the French side of Parallel 17 and relish the Sausage-Stuffed Quail. What’s not to like about meat stuffed with meat?
Perhaps one of the finest treats of the evening came in the afterglow, otherwise known as dessert. Picture it: a billowing ball of flowing Cotton Candy, a martini glass brimming with Nutella Mousse, a threesome of crackling Banana Spring Rolls, a ramekin of Coconut Bread Pudding, and a dollop of melt-on-your-tongue Dulce de Leche Ice Cream.
How much of that is Vietnamese and how much is French, you ask? Well, give Mary a bit of creative leeway, would you? Banana Spring Rolls — Cotton Candy flavored with lemongrass — Coconut Bread Pudding. They touch on traditional flavors, while at the same time reminding us that the Vietnamese are not often wont to dive into saccharine treats after a meal. That’s pretty much an American thing.
And that’s what makes Parallel 17 Mary’s pride and joy and not just some Vietnamese stop out in the suburbs. It’s inventive, brave, and masterful. Incidentally, it’s also what’s kept it alive and delicious for almost 20 years — with no end in sight.
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