Food for Thought: LOLA

Some restaurants endear themselves to the dining public with a shiny veneer. You know the type: eccentric signage dolled up with retro lights or hand-scrawled art; caricatured murals sprawled across the front door; old-timey knick-knacks dangling out the front. Then there are those that pulsate with a kind of energy more arresting than any veneer: patios spilling over with laughter; smiles lining the dining room; buzzing conversation pouring out of windows.

This is where LOLA begins  … but it is by no means where her story ends. The Latin-themed mainstay of LoHi has long been beloved by Denver’s dining connoisseurs, but it’s been around so long we’ve started to take her for granted. Let me remind you why LOLA is deliciously attractive, and how it has so gracefully remained true to her roots while staying on the edge of today’s ever-changing culinary scene.

 Inside the LOLA we know so well, the Big Red F team, championed by Culinary Director Jamey Fader and Executive Chef Kevin Grossi, has wound its way through a colorful turnstyle of late, exchanging patterned decorations for accents more in touch with Latin culture. Jamey has actually been out looking for portraits and paintings to replace the out-of-touch photographs that now dock the walls. When I stopped by for a meal, a cheeky Morgan Freeman lurked above me, eyes ever on the kitchen line. “Morgan’s got to go,” Jamey said to me with a bit of a wince. “Don’t get me wrong — I love me some Morgan — but he’s got to go.” In his place: snapshots of the faces of Latin culture, art depicting life by the sea, and trinkets both historic and artfully ornate.

Alongside this visual renovation, Jamey, along with Kevin and his crew, has brought together many of Big Red F’s strengths to make LOLA a shining new example of what Denver can do with both premium seafood and classic Latin cuisine. Kevin recently migrated from Jax in Fort Collins, so he’s very much in touch with the flavors of the sea. Pair that with LOLA’s Latin roots and you have a dynamic pairing that makes us appreciate (again) what LOLA’s engendered.

My exposure to Latin fare is, to be honest, spare. I’m a German white boy bred on schnitzel, so no surprise that spice masters confound me. And while I confess I’d never enjoyed Braised Octopus in a smoky rojo before, or posole as self-sure as the soulful red chile at its base, it perhaps did me a great service; eyes opened and palate primed, I dove in to this Latin seafood fare with relish.

There’s hardly anything on LOLA’s menu not worth a nibble or sip, but if you must choose, then lean heavily on a few outlying treats. For a crowd, order the tableside guacamole without hesitation, and guide the “Avocado Technician” to your own custom blend of spices and accoutrements. For me, the more garlic and lime the better. Another crowd-pleaser is very definitely the Queso Blanco Fundido, which reminds the good citizens of ‘Murica what can be done with exceptional cheese, a treasure trove of culinary talent, and absolutely no Velveeta.

If you make it to entrées, then know this: Jamey and Kevin have so deftly engineered the main dishes to leave each one unique, while spanning the wide spectrum of spice, texture, and presentation. For a light summer indulgence, spend some time with the Salmon Veracruz served with a savory-sweet tomatillo broth and heirloom tomatoes that bears the marks of the Mediterranean. For the rich, thick flavors of a classic mole, spend your appetite on the Carne Asada — a creamy, meaty, dark dish that does justice to an authentic Mexican staple. And if you need a show-stopper — perhaps for a date sliding toward awkward — then call on the Baja-Style Whole Fish. This one’s hard to paint, so you’d best just experience it. Suffice it to say you’ll get exactly what the menu describes: a crispy, deep-fried snapper that offers the chance to snack on bite-sized pieces of fried fillet, or dig deeper into the luscious neck and tail meat.

As your meal wends on, Jamey and his team soar back and forth across the dining room, lighting on various tables to check in on a Margarita neophyte (introduced to the premium tequila concoction made coin-style with Cointreau), banter about that interesting photo of Tim Robbins on the back wall (“I loved him in Shawshank!”), or sit down and talk añejos, because, well, that’s where it’s at.

Given that it’s summer, it might be a good idea to get your dessert to-go. Pastry Chef Xan Lynch has offered us just what we want, without having to ask for it: a walk-and-eat Snickerdoodle Ice Cream Sandwich for talking, slurping, and soaking in the sunset at the end of a night on the town. There’s also the waffle cone-wrapped Salted Oreo Choco Taco (also available to-go), and for those who enjoy lingering in the dining room, a subtly sweet Almond Cake with stone fruit that offers a happy resolution your last relationship probably didn’t.

Don’t be surprised if you find Jamey checking in with you between bites, or before you duck out for the night. If you’re lucky, he might even pull up a seat and call on one of his favorite tequilas to sip while regaling you with stories of the slopes or summers out flyfishing. A smile on his face and always a story at the ready, Jamey Fader is the personification of LOLA itself: fun, never to be taken too seriously, and ever eager to indulge and explore.

You remember the LOLA of the yesteryear right? Well, maybe it’s time you get to know her again, and discover why she made us so excited, so hungry 12 years ago. There’s always something to experience.

LOLA is located at 1575 Boulder St., Denver.