Exploring Austria: A Rainbow Journey

I won’t lie; Austria wasn’t really on my radar, let alone my gaydar, for travel. With same-gender marriage laws passed in 2019, the country is celebrating its LGBTQ+ culture (and history!) even more fully. The imperial antiquity, hyper-local food, friendly Austrians, and stunning natural beauty make it a destination I look forward to returning to. Flights from Denver to the region include direct airfare to Vienna, or direct to Zurich (Switzerland) or Munich (Germany), which only requires a van or train ride into Austria. Connecting flights from Denver to the region are prolific as well.

Vienna Pride takes place in summer months, which is an excellent time to visit the country. Over 300,000 people attend the parade in 2023 in a show of community and culture. For an LGBTQ+ hangout restaurant and cafe, check out the Motto am Fluss, which is on a boat with the café on the sun deck. The ivie app is a great way to explore the city and learn more about the queer culture, including following in the footsteps of lesbian archduchesses, dancing the night away in Vienna’s oldest gay club, or touring the pleasure palace of Prince Eugene.

Train travel is a spectacular way to see the most of Austria. Insider tip: make sure you pack light, and bring small bags to fit in the overhead racks or between-car luggage areas. Otzal is an alpine valley that is a must-experience while in the country. Atop the craggy mountains sits IceQ, one of the filming locations for James Bond 007 Spectre. After a toque-rated gourmet meal and panoramic views that will take your breath away, Bond fans should visit the adjoining 007 Experience, which includes immersive videos, props from the movie, and insider looks into the filming of the iconic franchise.

Also not to be missed while in the area: AQUA DOME. A literal spa world of saunas, mineral baths, soaking pools and water slides, this resort and hotel is a relaxation haven. Available to hotel guests only, Spa 3000 is a highlight of the property. But for shy Americans, be warned: There are textile-free (nude) zones in many areas of the resort. Off with the swim trunks, and enjoy the heat in one of the 11 saunas on property! Hiking in the area is another great way to see the valley. After enjoying a meal or drink at a local hütte along the path, cross the suspension bridge overlooking the valley for picturesque views. 

Home to all things Mozart, Salzburg is a historic destination that will have any traveler mesmerized. Check out a meal at Europe’s oldest restaurant: Fating back to 803, St Peter Stiftskulinarium restaurant is still serving hungry guests. Whether wandering the town and appreciating its modern art instillations, perusing the shopping streets with signage older than our own country, or experiencing a Sound of Music filming sites tour, Salzburg is an incredible city. Many clubs, bars, and cafes are great spots to dive into the local culture as well: HOSI bar, Mexxx Gay Bar, and Dark Eagle (men only) are all hotspots. Pick up a Salzburg card for free admission to attractions and museums, free use of public transportation, and additional discounts. Pride in Salzburg is in the fall, an idyllic time to visit the area, enjoy some Austrian beer or schnaps, and relish a chocolate hand-made Mozart Ball.

Finally, St Anton is an alpine ski city. Home to the largest ski area in the country, the local history and culture revolves around this favorite pastime. Whether enjoying the winter or summer months, dining, shopping, and outdoor activities abound. Hop on an e-bike in the summer and cruise the terrain along a breathtaking river, or don your skis in winter for some of the most incredible alpine skiing you’ll ever challenge yourself to do. The walkable city is adjacent to the train, making for an easy “home base” in which to explore the rest of Austria as well. 

Austria is a religious country in the sense that the majority of locals attend church, which is typically Catholic, but for the cultural and social aspect, not the religious fervor. Festivals through the church happen regularly, but are also fundraisers for the towns. When asking locals how they felt about the LGBTQ+ community, they were friendly and inquisitive. You’ll experience more curiosity than homophobia in these beautiful mountain cities. It warmed my soul to watch two tuxedo-clad gentlemen walking hand in hand to dinner at AQUA DOME, welcomed with smiles from the dashing maître d and treated just as any other couple—which is what we all wish and hope for in the community when traveling abroad. Austria, you found a place in my heart, and I look forward to seeing you again soon.  

Chad Chisholm is a gay freelance photographer and writer. See more at @chadchisholmphoto on Instagram.