EDGE Steakhouse: It’s more than the meat!

Julia Child said it best: “The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook.” In other words, steak takes the cake. But that doesn’t mean steak is the only thing top-notch steakhouses can muster. Sure, they do steak better than any howdeedo on a backyard grill, but there are other avenues for these havens of Americana to explore. Enter Simon Purvis, EDGE Steakhouse’s unequalled steak – and overall culinary – master. Chef Purvis has led the culinary charge at EDGE since the doors first opened in 2010, culling a reputation for gently-handled Kobe beef while changing the steakhouse mantra. EDGE is anything but a smoke-hazed gentlemen’s club, you see. In fact, its soaring ceilings, quirky architectural accents (a floating wine cellar comes to mind), and clean design mark it as the red-headed step child of classic steakhouse culture –  and that’s a good thing. On a recent tour through EDGE’s culinary landscape, Chef Purvis gave me a glimpse of impressive new small bites, many of which dot the revamped bar menu. In a city entirely landlocked, I’m continually amazed by the quality of seafood that adorns plates from Oceanaire to McCormick’s, and now to the very edge of EDGE. A trio of surf-and-turf delights – hamachi, salmon, and Kobe beef – tickle the tongue in one instance, leading on to richer indulgences like gelée-blanketed foie gras cozying up to toasted brioche and a wonton-ahi combo that sings with perfect pitch.  Is it any wonder the beverage program is as impressive? The enticing creativity of signature cocktails serve as subtly apt pairs for whatever small bites you happen to be nibbling on. Frankly, they could hold their own for a libation-studded afternoon: Superfruit Açai Cooler courts the ever-popular Veev Açai Spirit, melding with sparkly-sweet Prosecco and a tinge of citrus juices, while other go-tos include the lanky Pisco Sour and an all-local, Leopold Bros.-grounded cocktail riddled with blackberry goodness. But back to steak, right? Because Chef Purvis is keen on letting the meat do its own talking, most cuts are very simply seasoned. USDA Prime is a given, rubbed down with the house’s signature steak seasoning or an ancho chili concoction. Or, if you prefer, make it even simpler and ask for salt and pepper only; rib-eye, Kansas City strip, or filet mignon all aim to please, whatever their adornment. My recommendation? Pair your cut with a heaping helping of truffle fries. It’s decadent, I confess, but you’ve earned it. It was a long day, after all. Whether lingering at high-top tables in the expansive lounge and bar, or committed to a sit-down affair in the modern dining room, there’s hardly a thing on the menu that won’t make you re-think the steakhouse concept. If there’s one flavor that will linger after a meal here, it’s the flavor of masterful innovation. Oh, and steak. Julia Child was right about that.

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Seductive Spirits from EDGE Bar For the amateur mixologist, it would do you good to take some of EDGE’s cocktail inspiration home for exploration. Sample this spicy-fruity recipe in your own bar and learn what makes a real cocktail tick. It’s just what this scorching summer needs. Combine first three ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake well. Strain over ice into a Collins glass. Top with ginger beer. Enjoy poolside to the tunes of Katy Perry. Cranberry Fields Forever  1-1/2 oz Beefeater Gin 1/2 oz Leopold Bros. New England Cranberry Liqueur 1-1/2 oz fresh sweet-n-sour 2 oz Fever Tree Ginger Beer