Class is in Session: Lamb collars and cronuts in South Pearl’s Session Kitchen

When I think of “session,” I think of a session beer. When I think of a session beer, I think of a pint of Stiegl in a back alley bar in London. Something like what you’d see in Green Street Hooligans. Shouting, much ado about football, and pint after pint of that pale, effervescent draft. 

But then, we’re not in London, are we? And I don’t even like pale ales, let alone the warm kind that flows out of taps in British pubs (no offense, mates). Still, when I caught wind of a stop on South Pearl called Session Kitchen, it made me wonder: Do you go there to drink beer and talk about soccer?

No. Well, I suppose you can, but that’s not really its design. It’s got a funny history, this Kitchen. Once upon a time, it housed a toy shop — the vision of one of Sushi Den’s renowned owners, Toshi Kizaki. And the idea fits current design, what with soaring ceilings, a comic book-esque face eyeing the dining room from the back wall, neon glowstick chandeliers, and dangling fixtures akin to grown-up mobiles. But as time went on and sushi took more of Toshi’s attention, the space converted to Izakaya Den and, through a few keen real estate swaps, Session Kitchen.

But you’re not coming for dazzling light displays are you? That’s only part of why you’re coming. You’re after the culinary prowess of the singular Scott Parker, Grand Toque of the kitchen. If the name rings a bell, it’s because you’ve likely enjoyed his delicious artistry at Table 6. And while we all loved the creative energy that surged in that Cap Hill bistro-bar, it’s multiplied at Session.

First example: a buttery, whipped Chicken Liver Mousse smeared with relish atop a crisp Belgian-style waffle, dolloped with apricot preserves. Grimace all you want at the thought of “chicken liver,” but if you don’t try this delectable feature you will forever regret it.

Second example: a pull-apart Lamb Collar (yes, you can eat such things) akin to a gamey osso buco, but with less clichéd richness. Part of what Parker does so well is balance flavors and textures. This is a phenomenal case in point — a simply dressed, lemony bundle of arugula aside the savory lamb collar, paired with creamy gnudi (a cousin of the ubiquitous gnocchi). 

And for the finish: the triple salchow of the culinary world, a transport from the east coast done with Pastry Chef Levi Kuettel’s flourish: Cream Cheese and Chocolate Cronuts. ‘Nuff said.

What about drinks, you ask? Anything sessionable? Here, it seems, you can make a session out of anything — from herbaceous Negroni with big personalities, to beers that do a bit more damage than Stiegl pints (Tank 7, mmmm), to wines that ferry the seasons one to the next. There’s a colorful selection whatever your pleasure, and Denver being the spirited metropolis that it is, the carefully-curated beverage program fits the concept quite nicely. 

If you’re wondering about pre-noon indulgences, Session offers a warming brunch, best enjoyed when the weather is breezy and bright, and the doors are opened to renowned Denver summer mornings. If you want to come with a bandit or a horde a bit later, the dining room is lined with community tables perfect for drinking, chatting, and carousing. 

But if you’re wondering about that Rapids game, well, Session Kitchen might not be the best place for draft and football follies. It’s a different kind of “session” here, one with gourmet gusto and an adventurous batch of brew; with playful ambience and a distinct sense of fun; one that might just become the star of Denver’s beloved South Pearl.