Sherpa’s: Boulder’s Himalayan high

To many, the cuisine of the Indian sub-continent doesn’t amount to much more than soppy curry and Chicken Tikka Masala. Perhaps — thanks to the somewhat-adventurous offerings of Yak and Yeti — we also think of meat rendered from mountain-roaming creatures like goat and cantankerous yak. But that’s about as far as our imagination will take us.

The truth is, the countries that border India to the north harbor a wealth of culinary traditions still very much foreign to Coloradans. If we’re lucky, however, we can catch a glimpse of both the culture and cuisine of its rugged terrain. For Boulderites, the nearest we get to the richly spiced fare of Nepal and Tibet is the smile-studded dining room of Sherpa’s on Walnut Street.

From the vine-wrapped patio to the serpentine interior of this house-turned-restaurant, Sherpa’s is an understated gem. As with many a home that has become the setting for restaurant devotees, it uses the charm of the age-old building to its distinct advantage, spreading authentic knickknacks and memorabilia throughout for diners to catch between bites of saag or stew. The best part is, it’s never contrived or artificial; this is the real thing.

Fun fact: the owner himself is Sherpa, and once worked in the tourism industry helping travelers scour the Himalayas. And as you’ll see from the pictures adorning one of the walls in the dining room, he still periodically travels back to his homeland. If that isn’t enough to “peak” your interest, there’s a traveler’s library-lounge set up near the bar at the front of the restaurant, bulging with books about how, when, and where to plan your own excursion up the imposing slopes.

Realistically, however, most of us come for the food — a warm sampling of dishes both familiar (yes, there is Tikka Masala), and not so familiar (like the noodle-y Thupka). It really doesn’t matter how you indulge, since you can tailor your experience to touch on the more esoteric or the comfortable and pedestrian. Naan, for example, is plentiful and pillowy, dotted with fragrant garlic and cheese, or simply left plain. If your palate is agreeable, consider ordering the Appetizer Platter, a heaping helping of samosas (savory stuffed pastries), momos (steamed dumplings), panir, and pakora. It really could constitute a meal in itself. And whether you’re eyeing light and spicy or saucy and mild, the entrées run the gamut — a spicy Shrimp Vindaloo is tops on a chilly winter afternoon, while a mild Vegetable Korma paired with a heart-warming Argentinian Malbec heals all ill and warms the stomach at the same time.

If the affair of a sit-down meal doesn’t suit you, then perhaps the bar is where you should be — right in the middle of the action. Behind cocktail-sippers rests the library, where many of the owners and employees mill about, offering the perfect opportunity to nurse a gin-and-tonic while asking about what it’s really like to scale the legendary Everest. If you get hungry just thinking about it, there will undoubtedly be a samosa or two with your name on it.

The beauty of it all is that Sherpa’s is a culinary-culture stop for anyone. Whether you’re coming just for a sampling of rich cuisine, or want a taste of eastern worlds, Sherpa’s offers both; speakers, momos, books, saag, maps, biryani, photos, unending conversation, storytelling, and a heaping bowl of kir (rice pudding) round out an experience that is absolutely singular, tucked away amidst breweries and bars in the heart of Boulder. Honestly, where else can you explore the Himalayas while tucking into a bowl of yak-filled Sherpa Stew?