Sapphic Style: Lesbian designers add new flair to high fashion
Lesbian fashion is not an oxymoron. Lesbians have always been an important part of fashion. When I worked in the fashion industry in New York City, I knew plenty of lesbians in the industry. They were never the name on the door – they were the names behind the “names.”
I get phone calls from lesbians all over Denver lamenting about the lack of fashion design by lesbians for lesbians. Lesbians that fall somewhere in the middle of the butch/femme spectrum. Enter Alicia Hardesty (a competitor on Project Runway) and Lauren Bedford Russell (from The Real L Word).
Although neither is designing for lesbians exclusively, each is very out and open about who they are and making their own stamp on fashion.
I was fortunate to be able to interview each of them and find out what it means to them to be a lesbian in fashion and how they’re bringing their vision to this arena.
Lauren Bedford Russell – Lyon Fine Jewelry
Lauren Bedford Russell is an out and outspoken lesbian designing jewelry and striving to make a difference in and for her community.With a design philosophy like that, you know something different is about to happen. Lauren Bedford Russell started Lyon Fine Jewelry in 2012 with a goal of “evoking a deep sense of identity” for the wearer. To allow self expression through wearable art, using only conflict-free gemstones and creating pieces that not only make a statement, they also make a difference.
You’re on television and now you’re on tour with Hunter Valentine. You put a lot on your plate, and now I understand you are doing a lower priced line. Why?
Right now I’m living in Los Angeles and kind of going back and forth, between LA and NY. In the midst of it all, I’m still working as fast as I can to get some lower priced items available. It’s slow going because it takes a while to get this stuff out there. You know I’m doing this business by myself. It’s a lot of work, but it’s worth it. I know that there are a lot of people that want my jewelry but can’t afford it. It’s not going to be an entirely new line. I’m just adding some pieces. I’m just trying to make things a little more approachable for everyone.
I love your Equality Bracelet and at two price points, with 20 percent of proceeds going to Friendfactor, an organization to help educate and create straight allies for the LGBT community, a person can look good and make a difference. Is this important to you?
Yes it’s really important to me. I am a small company and I want to keep things personal to me. I have my Equality and Limitless bracelets. I am also coming out with a bullying bracelet. And I have one I want to do for animals.
I think I want one for myself.
The holidays are coming!
Where can someone purchase your jewelry?
Well, most of my sales are through my website lyonfinejewelry.com. There a few stores in New York that carry it. There’s Kiki de Mont Parnasse, they were my ultimate store to be in. Having my jewelry in there has been a dream.
I know that a lot of the work that you do is custom.
Yeah, I usually have at least five custom pieces in process.
Do you have to be in NY or LA to order a custom piece?
They just fill out the form online. I do a lot of wedding rings. I think the custom work is what I like best. Then I can do more individual work for people.
I like custom pieces because it means I’m the only one that has it. It can get pricey though.
Yes, custom is the way to go if you can afford it, but like my rings start at around $1500, which isn’t that much. But I know that some people are struggling to afford my stuff. You know, custom made jewelry isn’t at the top of everyone’s list.
Is the line being well received?
It’s going really well. I have some really exciting pieces I’m putting out. But, I’m constantly adding new pieces.
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Alicia Hardesty – The Original Tomboy
Project Runway gave Hardesty the opportunity to showcase her work and design aesthetic in front of a national audience, not bad for a girl from Kentucky with a fashion degree from Colorado.
You have a very specific design aesthetic that seems to appeal to a broad spectrum of people.
For me, I mean even when I was in school, my goal was to always find that middle ground. Like you don’t have to push it towards women’s and you don’t have to push it towards men’s, you have menswear for that. I want to use it as a starting point. [With my line] when women try it on they actually like it, and when guys try it on they actually like it.
So, it’s really about getting the right pieces, the right fit and play around with silhouette. There’s tons of womenswear out there, tons. It’s really about the fit and a specific feeling.
Although you design for the middle of the butch/femme spectrum, it isn’t really androgynous is it?
I design pieces that can go in either direction. I mean I can walk into any store and find that one piece that can be “femmed up” or “butched up,” but I have an eye. But I think that the problem is people don’t [know how to do that]. And there’s not a lot out there anyway. You really have to pick and choose. I mean I don’t shop that much because I just get frustrated. So, that’s what I’m trying to do – hook up the middle ground.
I mean androgyny has always been around, but I am trying to connect to that middle in a different way.
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You live and work in LA now, but where are you from and I hear there’s a Colorado connection?
I am originally from Kentucky. I got my [fashion] design degree from CSU.
Really?! Yet another Project Runway connection for Colorado, first Mondo, then Fallene Wells and now Alicia Hardesty; what kind of influence has Colorado had on your design?
Well, I came out in Kentucky and then moved to Colorado. When I was figuring out my whole design aesthetic it really wasn’t about “fashion,” it was more about what I wanted to do. It was about the freedom to find my own way and do my own thing.
Finding your fashion “voice,” so to speak.
Yeah, Colorado gave me free reign to do my own thing. I found influences everywhere from hip hop to high fashion to gay culture, and I was able to do all of that in college.
What’s the mission of The Original Tomboy line?
It’s about the freedom to open [fashion] up and making it cool for a lot of different people. It’s about a whole social movement. It’s social, it’s cultural and it’s also fashion.
Do you feel your line will give people the freedom to express who they are? Are you looking to broaden the options?
Yes. The Original Tomboy brand is a little bit country with a modern edge to it as well.
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