A history of idealism

Slung above the mountain town of Aspen — both geographically and in elevation — sits a peculiar resort known simply as Aspen Meadows. Its strikingly midcentury character isn’t typical of the quintessential mountain lodge–cum–luxury hotel motif I’ve been exposed to before, so it caught me off guard. Individual buildings are spread across an open campus with modern art and water fixtures. And while the rooms themselves are rife with comforts — TVs, couches, refrigerators, private balconies, a healthy supply of magazines and Zen-like calm — what stands out more than anything at this colorful stay is its history.

You see, part of why Aspen Meadows is not your standard ski resort is that it’s rooted in something quite separate from leisure life. More than 60 years ago, a man by the name of Walter Paepcke landed in Aspen when the city was still inchoate — a seedling of a town and a wealth of opportunity. For Paepcke, though, that opportunity was also a charge to build a community on the foundation of mutual dialogue on world issues. Here, on the same campus that Aspen Meadows Resort now sits, Paepcke built his dream: The Aspen Institute, 22,000 square feet of meeting space where world leaders have congregated for the past half a century to discuss art, health, politics, science and the future of our world.

It’s a humbling place to kick your feet back and relax — a blending of lifestyle, which emphasizes healthfulness and activity alongside relaxation, and integration with living history. Just walk the grounds to see where history lives — in the spaces and sculptures that have played host to our era’s most monumental conventions.

Plato’s Restaurant, at the heart of Aspen Meadows, is a tribute to the Greek philosopher, thinker and inspiration for the work of the entire culinary team led by James Beard Award–nominated Chef Todd Slossberg. While Slossberg is intimately involved in the culinary character of the entire resort — from simple breakfast to convention dinners — Sous Chef Paul Rose has lately taken the helm at Plato’s, continuing a tradition of locality, seasonality and uninhibited invention.

Looking over Roaring Fork River and the distant mountains of idyllic Aspen ski country, my better half and I nestled into a meal that was part homage to Continental European staples — a busy Charcuterie Board to start — and part sampling of the world’s many cuisines. Ruby red, tender Ahi Carpaccio was one of Chef Rose’s early treats, followed quickly by housemade scones and gluten-free yucca flour bread — both hearty, flavorful fixtures with a cap of creamy butter and a dash of salt.

Naturally, the heart of the meal was what got us most excited: Citrus-Marinated Skuna Bay Salmon gently laid on a bed of spring vegetable risotto and surrounded by smoked tomato broth, and Grilled Rack of Veal with crisp broccolini and a creamy mushroom sauce. The food spoke for itself, but when surprisingly young Chef Rose came out to greet us the meal became that much more impressive. Laidback yet clearly passionate, Rose chatted with us about sourcing this and that, wandering farmers’ markets and exploring Colorado’s best farms. Plato’s even has its own on-site garden, he said, which produces everything from salad greens to a sea of fragrant herbs.

It’s hard to not let that be the capstone of a day — even if world-changing decisions have nothing to do with it. But as newbies in a city of such history and character, we had to explore Aspen’s dynamic downtown. A shuttle from the resort got us where we were aiming to go — huddled up at the bar of rowdy Justice Snow’s, Armagnacs in hand. And when the noise got a bit too much for our old ears, we ambled over to Aspen Brewing, soaked in the charm of live music, and nursed a few pints of spectacular stout.