10 reasons why Denver is the culinary center of the world

As politics and fashion churn and burn, I think it’s important to stop and remember two of the things we love the most about our lives: food and living in Denver. To that end, I’ve put together a list of 10 reasons why Denver is America’s next culinary mecca, and why we love it more than RuPaul. These are not in any hierarchical order, mind you – just reasons to love the Mile High’s culinary prowess.

1. I Have a Dream. It might be a blessing and a curse, but Denver has seen its share of home–grown culinary empires. Once upon a time there was Kevin Taylor, then there wasn’t really much of Kevin Taylor, and now there’s a lot of him again. Richard Sandoval – whose Latin–loving kitchens dot the city’s landscape – planted roots in Denver years ago with Tamayo, and is now bringing his international headquarters to Denver. There are other successes to note, of course – like the handiwork of Josh Wolkon with Vesta Dipping Grill, Steuben’s, and Ace; not to mention the legion of stellar restaurants Frank Bonanno and Jennifer Jasinski have conjured. It would seem that whatever your ambition, Denver’s a good place to give your culinary dream a go.

2. Hoppin’ for Hops. OK, so you might be tired of hearing about the sea of breweries that are opening, changing, growing, brewing, and otherwise flooding Denver with beer. But let’s be honest: it’s in our blood. What’s more, we’re leading the charge of a new phenomenon that pairs beer with food. Oh, and did I mention we’re the envied host of the Great American Beer Festival (brewersassociation.com) every year?

3. Local Is As Local Does. A few weeks ago, I was reading an article in The New York Times about how New York City residents are clamoring to be part of community gardens, since, I suppose, a condo on the Upper Westside doesn’t leave much room for cultivating summer squash. Even New York restaurants are donning rooftop greenery just to show that they are “farm-to-table friendly.” Here, however, not only do restaurants maintain their own farms (nods to Black Cat and Fruition), but inspired diners are taking up the local mantle on their own. The key is: we have the room to do it.

4. Around the World in 80 Meals. To the world outside, Denver is still more or less a cow town, pushing its way slowly into the realm of cosmopolitan-ness. To those who live in Denver, however, our city is far more diverse than people realize. We have a bevy of ethnic cuisine stops where ordering in English is sometimes a challenge – and evidence of authenticity. Out east in Aurora, there are known to be quite a few unassuming but delectable Korean barbecue restaurants, while Japanese and sushi standards skip from Wash Park (Sushi Den, Izakaya Den) to Boulder (Sushi Zanmai). There’s Mexican, Italian, German, French, Scandinavian – you name it. The world may not know it, but we have a proverbial salad bowl of cuisines right in our own backyard.

5. Critic’s Crucible. If you ever make a stop in LA, or New York, or Chicago – even a mellow Northwest destination like Seattle – and pick up the local rag, you’ll probably find a restaurant critic who’s settled in for the long haul. They eat a steak, they like a steak, they tell you to like the steak. I have seen their reviews usher out into the dining ether like proclamations to be absorbed without challenge. I’ll admit that everyone loves a competent, thoughtful critic. But what’s great about Denver is that restaurant criticism is always a conversation. If you’re a critic, you can’t really get away with black-and-white renderings of fresh-on-the-scene eateries, simply because we Denverites know better. We have our own experiences and we’re not afraid to share them. It makes reading a review much more dynamic and, in my humble opinion, far more interesting.

6. Food Truck Fabulousness. We’ve got cupcakes, we’ve got sausages, we’ve got tamales – heck, we’ve even got healthy green eats on wheels. And it’s only the beginning. Here is where the culinary seeds of future restaurants are planted – the likes of Über Sausage and Comida Cantina among them, both of which are now brick-and-mortar hotspots. If I were you, I’d round up some friends and spend an evening where the tasty trucks congregate – near breweries, civic centers, and business districts. If you want to know more about meals that roam and where you can stalk them, check out roaminghunger.com. It’s sure to induce some drooling.

7. Captivating Comfort. What is it we love the most about our fair city? Is it the mythical 300 days of sunshine? Or perhaps the closeness of the mountains? Or perhaps the dancing aliens? No, I think, there’s something more ethereal – and central – to why Denver’s so loveable. Simply: we lack pretension. Somehow, we’ve managed to be as excited about our Western brand of comfort food (bison steak anyone?) as we are about trailblazers who are shaking things up (au fusion guru Troy Guard). And in that excitement, we’re not sticking up our nose – just celebrating our diversity. I’d rather explore the culinary world of Denver over the LAs and New York Citys of the world any day.

8. Hail Mary. It’s possible we have a fondness for steakhouses named after football heroes – Elway’s and Shanahan’s in particular. But that doesn’t mean we tolerate sub-par, over-priced food in their swanky dining rooms. The chefs at these landmarks have carved out their own niche, and have become celebrated talents in our city. Some, like Chef Tyler Wiard of Elway’s, have even cooked at the James Beard House. The point is, we don’t get all woozy and stupid when a restaurateur slaps a celebrity name on a steakhouse – or any restaurant for that matter. We still expect it to deliver.

9. Test, Test. I’ve heard it said that Denver is a great test market, but I’m not sure there’s much evidence of it – except of course, that when chain restaurants want to try out a new concept, they often pick Denver. Why? Well, apparently we offer a healthy appetite, and one that’s not too predictable. We’re diverse, but not too diverse; adventurous, but not too adventurous. Or something. I’m not so concerned about chain restaurants heading our way, but it has brought us into the dining limelight. Independent chefs and restaurateurs have seriously considered opening up shop in our ‘hoods because we’ve gotten so much of this “testing” attention. I suppose it’s also good to know that our opinion is highly valued when Wendy’s introduces its next Fried Pretzel Burger Shake or whatever’s new-fangled in the fast food world.

Last but not least, the No. 10 reason why you should (or already do) love Denver dining…

10. The Original Duffeyroll. Krispy Kreme can stuff it.